soulstirringexperiences

My Blog is an attempt to share,gather,learn from experiences that have touched my soul in some way.It's a new found voice to my thoughts and how I feel about life and everything related to it.

Friday, June 16, 2006

Rendezvous with the Mighty Himalayas


Its an experience that i shall cherish all my life . Yes my 1st ever trek and that too in the magnificent Himalayas. It was the most unexpected trip ...just a call from friend asking me to join him for this trip and there I was saying yes to it . It was as though it was a calling of some sorts from the spectacular mountains surrounded by charismatic beauty. Funnily my friend had to back out last moment and I decided to explore this trip with 23 strangers from Gujarat - Vapi and Baroda (India). It all began at Delhi Station where I introduced myself to these 7 youngsters ranging from age of 22yrs to 29yrs. All it took was an initial hello and I was as comfortable as some one who would have known them for years. The journey lasted 6 hrs and our destination was Haridwar station. At Haridwar we were picked up by a private cab (Qualis car ) and brought to a beautiful Ashram at Hrishiskesh which was a 45 min drive from Haridwar. The Ashram was very neat and clean and above the rooms was a beautiful Hare Rama Hare Krishna temple . In midst of the silence I could hear light manjiras playing and some people chanting the Hare Rama matra. It felt amazing and so peaceful. I sat by the Temple stair case just enjoying the new holy environment. After a while we just decided to walk around the Ashram to get attuned to our 1st destination. It was long beautiful walk that night.

Early next morning I woke the whole group up at 6 am and dragged them to explore Hrishikesh ...it was a beautiful morning. We strolled on the road ...sounds of temple bells, fresh clean air, sadhus in saffron clothes, mules, Groups chanting hare Rama hare Krishna and melodious sound of the gushing waters of the Ganga was just quite enigmatic experience. Just as I walked what I noticed was this bald saint draped in a saffron cloth walking right in front of me ... i saw the rays of the sun fall over him making it look as though he was the enlightened one. The sight just moved me and I quickly captured it on my camera. As we moved to the river banks what again caught my attention were theses two saints draped in saffron standing by the river bank looking at each other as though wondering which way was the way to enlightenment ...sounds silly but that’s really the thought that crossed my mind. As we walked further we reached this bridge ( Ram Jhula) that crosses the Ganga ...its swings as you walk on the same. The view of Hrishikesh from there was spectacular. As I walked what caught my attention were dark feet of a very ordinary girl,clad in a beautiful red saree with a golden border ... her feet were adorned by beautiful broad silver anklets and she had applied beautiful red Alta ( Red coloured Henna)...though such an ordinary looking sight but as she walked ahead her feet in between the folds of her saree just made her so graceful and beautiful...i wonder if it was really her feet or that i had just got sensitized to observing minutest of details away from the maddening city life and being able to see its true beauty in them. As we walked forward an what caught my attention was an old woman dressed quite traditionally with her head covered by a ghoonghat selling roasted papad ...i tried to capture her in my camera but she shooed me away. There was a lot of character on her face. The next thing that i saw was a small shop on the foot path selling camera toys and hand fans made bright colourful woolen threads. Just a simple sight but made for a very attractive colourful image. There were all the colours of a rainbow. We had breakfast at the famous Chotiwala dhaba and headed to a shop that sold interesting religious items. It was Roshini's idea i think to buy 8 of Rudraksh and tie them as friendship bands to protect us through out the trek. The shopkeeper sold us the Rudraksh and suggested that we dip it into the Ganga to purify it ... that was our 1st touch and feel with the holy water of the Ganges. It was freezing cold and few minutes in the water made our hands and feet go numb.

That after noon we were joined by the rest of the group from Bardoda which was a family group that entailed of children and grown ups from age of 35 to 45yrs of age. As we headed for our pre planned rafting program all of us were very excited yet nervous. We were taken to a place called Badhripur 30 mins drive from our ashram and handed over our rafting gears and rows. We were a bit disappointed as the original plan was to start from Shivpuri which was banned by the Govt due to climatic conditions. We trekked a short distance down hill to reach the shore of the Ganges where we were introduced to our rafting instructor who divided us in groups of 8 and gave us the do and don't of a raft, life jacket and rowing styles as per the tide...we quickly sat into our rafts all excited. We were asked to fix our legs tightly to the corners of the raft and move in the forward position. As we approached our 1st big rapid we quickly kept rowing in the 1 , 2 , 1. format. As the rapid took over the raft I found myself slipping out and almost about to fall off the raft .My one leg was up in the air and i some how tried holding myself...Akbar sitting on the opposite side saw me and yelled making people alert and quickly Roshini caught my hand . That was some feeling ...scary, thrilling, exciting and fun. Latter the river was smooth and quite for some distance. At one point the instructor asked people who wanted to swim to get into the water. All 7 of my group mates jumped ... i felt so silly and lonely as i was the only one who didn’t know swimming. Was all gloomy when Rikke came up to me and encouraged me to jump in the water. She assured me that it was safe as i had a life jacket on and would float. After much thought i just jumped and quickly caught the raft .. it was ice cold holy water of the Ganga but the feeling was brilliant. Floated for a while but not to confident to survive thus quickly came up. We were just about getting back to normal out of our excitement when the raft started moving towards the shore . We were disappointed thinking it was over. Just then the instructor announced that those who were brave enough could climb up the 40 ft high cliff and jump into the Ganges ...sounded a bit bizarre ...every one was very reluctant...when suddenly our mountain goat Rikke was up there on the cliff and within a blink of an eye she had jumped. Seeing her jump the excitement level amongst every one rose high ...and every one enthusiastically headed for the cliff. Soon most people had made their 1st jump. I again sat alone in my raft as I was so sure i couldn’t make it. The jump that too in a river.My biggest fear was drowning, i had no swimming experience. Suddenly came Rikke like the fairy ... she gave me the most clichéd pep talk ever but at that moment it worked (we laughed about it latter).. and I started to head for the cliff. Seeing my enthusiasm and guts the instructor sitting the raft got up and encouraged me to make the move. I decide to make the jump from the cliff of lesser height. As I stood there that my heart almost felt in my mouth ...strange thoughts passed my mind ... what if something goes wrong but I was reminded of Rikke’s pep talk about how proud i would feel if i made it ...After 5 -7 mins of contemplating i jumped ...SPLASH and darkness is all that i remember ...faintly heard some one say leave ur hands as i arose from the water ....soon i saw myself floating towards the raft ...also head a cheer from my group on my brave act ...can't explain my excitement and pride at that moment. Soon i was ready to make my 2 nd jump which was as thrilling as the 1st ...it was the most bizarre thing i have ever done. The trip had begun with such a bang ..rather SPLASH that we were all excited and looking forward to the days to come.

Next morning we headed to Gangotri ..it was 12 hrs drive almost 264 km . Was quite a scenic drive but very uncomfortable drive. There were a couple of things that caught my attention on the drive though. The Mangal nagar Dam which a had perpetual rainbow that gets formed due to the force of water and sunlight. It was quite an exciting site to see a rainbow at that low height and distance. The other interesting thing was a patch for about 5-6 km which was by the river and water of which was Green ...it looked amazing brown mountains, blue sky and green river. Never ever seen something like that ...i was in awe. As we kept driving it started to get cool and finally we saw most spectacular valleys with the river flowing between the. I also saw the sun playing hide and seek ...hiding behind the mountains or the clouds. The drive just started to get enjoyable. For few km there were dusty rocky mountains ...but some how they had a charm of their own. We all stopped at a point for some hot tea in the chilly weather by the valley .It was great fun sipping hot tea and eating yummy snax that was carried by Thripthi bhabhi from Baroda. The whole drive just had just begun to give a feeling of rejuvenation. Soon it got darker and we couldn’t see a thing ...but i realized, once you are so close to nature, nature has it's way for making you experiences it in every way possible ...that’s exactly what happened in the dark ...it suddenly started raining and we felt water droplets and the amazing smell of wet mud. Its my favorite. Soon we were at Gangotri ...it was so chilly and we decided to give a group hug to make us feel warm. We were put up in a Ashram at Gangotri at night and had to pack up for a 4 day trek there after. It was stuffy room with 6 beds and eight of us ...very uncomfortable and i couldn’t sleep all nite. At 5 :30 am in just decided to venture out and explore Gangotri at its best. Mornings at these scenic places are usually an awesome site. What I saw was better than I ever expected. Right opposite our ashram were these mighty mountains staring right into my face ...kind of felt very small and insignificant at that moment. It just got better as i saw the gushing Bhagirati river ...the force of the water was ferocious and the sound it made was quite scary too yet i saw lots of people by the river banks bathing and praying early that morning. The air was so pure and as I looked around the sight of the greenery, mountains and water just made me feel so much at peace. I could hear the bells at the temples ringing too. Suddenly my eyes caught site of a Trishool near the ashram temple. It was made of brass , had a damroo attached to it and was a beauty . Out of curiosity just tried to look around it and captured a brilliant picture of the the Trishool over looking Gangotri . Just then I was joined by Sailesh Bhai (a Doctor from Baroda ), Mohit ( a finance consultant) and Anirudh ( the trek organizer). As we sipped our morning hot cup of tea we chatted and admired the beauty. Anirudh shared some interesting fables of the Bhagirathi river and Ganges. It was good fun chatting with people from different perspectives. That’s one thing i enjoy about traveling with new people. Surely enriches you as a person. Soon we were all set to leave for our 4 day trek ...all of us very excited and nervous too. We were to walk 14 km uphill that day ...We all began cheering each other and having fun . What caught my eye was something really unbelievable. It was bark of a tree that had been cut. For some strange reason it resembled so much to a Ganesha idol. I could see the eyes and tusk very clearly. It must be my imagination for sure but seemed like a great start and an auspicious omen. I felt really good and kept walking...soon the stamina gave way and started panting alot. But the landscape was so beautiful that it just got us going ...saw snow capped mountains, water falls with log bridges on them, greenery, sun rays on the mountain making it look like ice cream ready to eat, the river by the trail, mountain roses and lots of interesting birds. The spectacular part of this trek that I discovered was that every kilometer we walked the Scenery changed. It was just an experience I cant describe.We would stop after ever few km at small Tekris ( small temporary shops) to drink tea or mango drinks .. get energized and move further ...soon my group disappeared as they walked pretty fast and i was being careful with my foot. However I discovered new friends from Baroda who not only gave me company but took great care of me and pampered me alot. The only thing on my mind was " I can... I will “and I kept walking. It was very hot and by noon the sun was right above us. It started to get difficult. But again the ever changing scenery kept me going... At 3 pm a decision was taken to spend the night at Chirbhasa which was at 9 km ( from Gangotri ) that we had covered. We got news that our final destination Bhojbasa had bad climate and was not advisable to walk up to there in the dark. As we approached the camp site there was this awesome feeling of " Aah I have made it " Tired we were ...so while the tents got set we sat down to massage each others shoulders and backs. It was fun group activity. Each one sitting behind the other and giving a group massage .The tents were pretty ...and in the open the whole idea of spending the night there seemed fun ...until 2 misfortunate things happened. 1st being that as we sat for lunch we realized that yummy looking Pullao had turned bad ...so poor us had to starve for another hours till Maggie noodles were organized ( I had to eat Maggie after 14 yrs of quitting it) . The other bad newz received was that our luggage that had our woolens had moved ahead to Bhojbhas due to some miss communication with the mule owners and there was no way to reach out to them. It started to get dark and cold ...we were all shivering and feared that we would catch a chill and fall sick. Rikke and Ketual who were in shorts just got into their sleeping bags and were very cold. Every one was worried ..but the team spirit came to play. People who had carried their rucksack started to share it with others. We started to play antakshari to distract attention ...by 10 pm i was really really cold so was forced to ask for a peg of rum.

Over dinner we met Nick a 26 yr old tourist from NY who had been wandering all over India capturing moments that moved him and had a story to tell. He was very interesting to talk to. He talked about self realization and his quest to understand what life was all about. It was a deep conversation we shared for a while. He gave me his website address so that I could get a glimpse of his pictures and his philosophy to life. While I found him interesting but felt that he was running away from life and the package of responsibilities that come along with it...however to each their own. Rikke our Danish exchange student got pally to him and went up to his tent and that’s what bugged the whole group they were being protective and caring, she was their responsibility after all ...but I didn’t find them very understanding towards her cultural diffrences. However we all sat together in one tent to beat the heat but there was an atmosphere of concern and anger. Soon Rikke got back and we dispersed to our tents. I had a long chat with her trying to make her understand that while she was culturally different she needed to understand Indian sentiments and live with them till he was here. She was smart kid ...all of 17 but way mature than regular 17 yrs old in India. I tried hard sleeping that nite but felt very claustrophobic. Again at 5 pm I was up exploring the mountains around . I was a beautiful morning. Had to attend natures call out in the open which was funny experience in itself. Had to walk quite a bit to find a big rock or bush to hide behind. It was a hilarious.

That morning was Amrita's 11th Bday. She was a talented young girl great classical singer and quite talkative kid. I wished her with a chocolate and we all sang ' Happy Birthday ' for her. The Cook had been instructed to make Hot shira for her too .. We enjoyed our breakfast and headed out of our campsite to our next destination Bhojbhasa( 4 km ahead). The trek from base camp to the main trail was very tough and scary ... but we walked together as a group. The walk from Chirbhasa to Bhojbasa was very easy and comfortable. There was 2 km of landslide area in between which was scary and we were asked to be cautious about the same. As we walked the landscape began to change again. It got very rocky and we saw lots of white and grey boulders .But we were all quite charged up for some reason. Within few hours we were at Bhojbhasa ( 12500 ft ). It was a spectacular location. Chilly breeze and mountains around gushing Bhagirathi ...i went speechless...sat there just staring that the beauty of nature ...just sat there by myself trying to soak in all the beauty. There was something about that place that made me just endlessly stare way with out a word. It was a great feeling for sure. The weather conditions soon started to get bad And it started to rain. It was funny kind of rain ...more of non stop drizzle. Most people were put up in an Ashram but we “studs” decided to camp in tents by the river side. Post lunch we all 8 got together in the tent and played Chinese Wispers and Truth or Dare . It was too much fun. It also kept us warm, being together. We also went by the river side and it was wonderful. The gushing sound of the river was so ferocious yet so soothing. Isat in my tent for a while and just read a book. By 6 pm the weather got worse ...it got so cloudy and cold.Staying in the tents got difficult. Akbar went hunting and soon found us a luxury tent . It was just perfect for us ...8 beds with blankets but we had to pay 250Rs. per head per tent. The cold was killing and any amount of money was worth spending. Good part was there were toilets too ...We just got very cosy and comfortable there and the good part was all 8 of us could be together. Next morning we were scheduled to leave for Gaumukh, 5 km from Bhojbhasa. The Galcier where the Ganga originates from an altitude of 13000ft. However due to high altitude alot of people dropped out as they began to feel sickness. Children were advices to stay back. It kept raining all night ...i woke up at 5 :30 am and started to explore Bhojbhasa. I was lucky to catch a glimpse of the 1st rays of the sun on snow peaked mountains. It was quite a sight. I just walked around and discovered a beautiful temple with a Shivling amidst of misty mountains. Could also hear the bells on the mules gazing around and the sound of the gushing river. The whole sight was refreshing not to mention was cold ...but i had some 4 layers of clothes on, keeping me warm.

The trail to Gaumuk couldn’t be seen due to the clouds. I met a local guide who was at 1st doubtful if it was safe to go to Goumukh. I prayed hard as after getting till all the way there was no way we could see the magnificent Goumukh. Soon by 7 pm the weather started to get better . One thing about the mountains are that they are so very unpredictable but that’s what’s fun. We all were instructed to rush as the locals predicated that it would get bad post 2 pm again. I started my climb chanting " Hari Om " The climb was very steep and rocky to begin with …the view was magnificent but very barren. It seemed comfortable for 1st 3 km …Soon my group disappeared as they walked faster than me … I felt safe and secure and kept walking. Then reached a point where there was a beautiful shivling by the river side. A pandit was washing the Shivling. I took blessing and started my trek.I had no clue what would lie ahead…that was the part where the trek gets more difficult. There were only rocks, boulders and pebbles. I started to follow people as they walked on a narrow trail that could accommodate only one step at a time. This trail was at a height and very scary as onside was the river in full force and the other side were rocks and boulders. One wrong step or mis balance and that would be a disaster. That was one time in the trek I was shit scared and felt really alone …I just thought to myself that God I wish I had some one with me to face this difficult situation …what the hell did I have to do this alone . I was just thinking this in my mind and felt like I was about to slip …just then I heard a strange voice from behind saying “ Madame neeche aajo yeh raasta aap ke liye theek nahi hai” I turned around and saw a commando from the army camp I had seen some km back. My gut just told me to step back and take his advice …he seemed god sent …He took me from another path which was by the river side and had large boulders too …He kept walking ahead of me and constantly kept watch on my every step. According to him it was an easier route but I was finding that difficult too …for some reason just by him being there the fear had disappeared … Strange na . After all he was complete stranger to me. There were certain junction where if he wouldn’t have given me a hand I would have slipped into the river. Some how I reached a point which looked safer and could see the Glacier ( Gaumukh). It looked awesome …Soon I heard a cheer from my entire group who saw me reach there. It was a great feeling. I thanked the commando and told him that I felt he was God sent …My group was on its way back as it wasn’t safe to be around the glacier for long due to bad weather conditions and land slides. However I requested them to give me 5 mins so that I could see it closely. It was a grand sight what looked like a magnificent mountain was actually all ice …and this is the place where the Ganga gushes out of the glacier and immerges as the Bhagirathi. I just stood there for a few seconds admiring the beauty. Quickly filled the Ganga in a barrel I had carried and headed back as I could see landslide. The way back was scary too but Anirudh helped me get through it. At a point I saw the Commandos carry a huge ice slab that looked like a mountain itself. They said they had got it from the glacier. It was a beauty. I quickly held it in my hand and took a picture with it. The Commando who had helped me started to walk with me again back to his camp. That’s when I asked his name. Manoj . He told me that he had been there last 1 month for training and his next destination was to climb The Everest. Apprently if he managed that he would be given 2 lac rupees and a promotion. He also showed me a location from where a snow peak looks like Shivling … however thanx to the clouds I couldn’t see it. From there on I thanked Commando Manoj again and kept walking slowly but steadily. I was quite drained out physically and emotionally. The whole experience … the excitement, fear, beauty, the help out of no where and sense of achievement all seemed very over whelming …was in tears and just the belief that the universe is knows what is right for me and that it appears at the right time. With total acceptance of the fact that I wasn’t alone and right things would appear when needed I just kept walking back. Was breathless and very very tired but dragged myself back to base camp at Bhojbhas where my fellow group mates had already reached. Once I reached the tent I just lay in my bed totally speechless for hours. Post that trek I was quite on mostly … I don’t really know why but just something within didn’t quite let me talk to anyone …yes the feeling of wanting to share constantly came to mind … but accepted the fact that it had to be me and the universe alone.

Next morning we geared back for Gangotri …a non stop 14 km trek down hill . Really enjoyed most parts of it . It was raining all through out so some places were scary. I kept admiring the beauty of the landscapes and clicked away to glory. Though on the way back I was alone again …and at one point I broke down as I sensed some with me.…I stopped and cried my heart out I guess it was just the feeling of being alone that I hated at that moment and it took over me …soon I was better and kept walking trying to enjoy the moment. I reached Gangotri at 4 pm after 5-6 hrs walk. Called Mom up 1st thing and then went down the river bank to fill Ganga in my small brass barrel.

From Gangotri we left for Harshil ( 9000ft). It’s a place famous for its natural beauty and delicious apples. There were many beautiful walk way around. 1st Night we were all put up ay a Lodge called Sprindales. A beautiful lodge on the high-way, over looking the river and mountains. The view from the balcony was to die for. We got hot water …and it was after 4 days that we actually had a bath …can explain how we valued that bucket of hot water. Something we take for granted in our city life. That night we all got together blasted music and danced away for a few hours. Post which we 8 got back to our rooms and decided to sit in the balcony all night and just enjoy the moonlight. We all got one blanket each chit chatted at times and remained quite at times and spent the entire night in that balcony by the river side. Its amazing how one can even enjoy the silence at times.

Next morning we all woke up at ease, had a lavish breakfast and reached the camp site. But by then the aches and pains had started to set in. We spent the entire day at the campsite which was beautiful, Had amazing koftas for lunch , played cricket and then took off on a trek to see a beautiful Tibetan settlement. The entire walk from the campsite to the Tibetan village was very scenic. Had to pass an army are too. There were lots of pine trees. In fact the mountains were full of pine trees and there was lush greenery around. At Harshil every one was relaxed in a very playful mood. Back at our lodge we would play games, sing, have pillow fights or just ticking bouts, I even cooked ef bhurji for the entire group that they relished. It was like being a child again. And the feeling was great. We would stay awake all night together. There was some kind of a bond that we had developed and it was nice. We would spend the day at campsite but nights were back in the lodge . Had lost interest in living out of tents…We would sit at campsite though . One of the days I just happily sat on the carrier of the jeep along with Kalpesh Doctor and enjoyed our hot tea and bhajiyas. It was quite a view from up there. I even spotted a rainbow and shouted out to the group like an excited child. There were a lot of strange looking dogs around . They had so much fur and looked like lions. We also say heard of sheep. Though both nights we went to the camp site and put up a campfire. It was beautiful sitting there playing Dumb Charades and Antakshari. It was chilly in the open but the warm fire just made it perfect. Fire anyway has its own charm and charisma. I would just keep starting at it. One of the nights there was thunder … can explain how beautiful it was. Striking light followed by roaring thunder and an echo of the thunder. It was just magnificent. From Harshil we headed back to Hrishikesh and then back to Delhi.
I think it was trip I am going to cherish all my life. I was not only mesmerized by the beauty, made a lot of friends, interacted with interesting strangers, learned mythological facts about the places, felt pure and had a lot of emotional baggage released that made me feel like a different person. I am glad I get such opportunities to travel and gather Soul Stirring Experiences !

1 Comments:

At 11:42 AM, Blogger Biren said...

hey payal, where are the fotos?
you should be able to upload them here.
biren

 

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